The AFRO-DIZZY inspiration!

Laduma Ngxokolo-Maxhosa Knitwear

xhosa-inspired knitwear for Amakrwala by Laduma Ngxokolo

    Conscious Inspiration! A term used in art that describes a situation where an idea is borrowed , shaken up and transformed into an embodiment of personal expression. After all, what truly defines good design is the ability to re-invent something has been in existence into a representation of ones own “genuity". 
 The Maxhosa Knitwear illustrates exactly that!
  Brainchild of South African Designer Laduma Ngxokolo, The Maxhosa knitwear range is a brilliant display of his Xhosa cultural pride given a modern twist.  In this collection,  the very essence of the Xhosa traditional bead-work patterns are transmuted into a one-of-a-kind, new-fangled attire.

source

  

   Ngxokolo chose to use the beautiful Xhosa bead-work as a basis for his designs. This is one of the most popular decoration practices in the culture, and the intricate geometrical bead-work conveniently serve as the perfect template for the knitting motifs. Popular Xhosa bead-work take on shapes such as the arrow, diamond, zigzag and axe, creating different patterns that capture the eye, all of which are interpreted into his knitwear collection.

Traditional Xhosa bead work -source

source

Colour also plays a key role in Xhosa culture. Ngxokolo carefully considers a palette that is truly representative of the Xhosa traditional colours.

   With this is mind, he selects light, medium and dark hues that are recognizable as authentic Xhosa shades. He achieves this by utilising ‘pantone colour chips’ so that he interprets the colours of the bead-work to get yarns dyed locally according to the specifications of the palette. 

Knitting pattern designs -source

source

    Ngxokolo cleverly  utilises conscious inspiration in his design; the result of which is a very innovative fashion that has been dubbed as an ‘urban warrior style’. 
He explains, “while colour, rhythm and style are important to me when designing a pattern, it is the ability to attach an identity of a certain group, culture or subculture to a pattern that takes a pattern beyond a decorative nature.”

 Laduma Ngxokolo September 2011 London Fashion Week

source

     Ngxokolo ’s initial inspiration for the designs stemmed from  a visit to an art exhibition at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum in Port Elizabeth.  "The Beauty of Bead-work" was on display; an inspirational collection of traditional Xhosa bead-work dating back to the 1800’s. 
   “When I saw this collection I just knew it would be the ultimate solution for the 2010 B-Tech research I was doing at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University at the time. My mission was to develop a range of Xhosa-inspired men’s knitwear for Xhosa initiates to substitute the knitwear styles that they were wearing  for their Xhosa initiation rituals, which tended to bear no resemblance of Xhosa tradition.”  

source

 Ngxokolo also stresses the importance of supporting local industry. He felt that there were no brands that obtained any aesthetic resemblance to Xhosa traditions. Hoping to help rejuvenate the South African textile and garment industry with his innovative designs, he uses 80% marino wool which is hand-spun and dyed in South Africa. In this way, he maintains a strong focus on sourcing local materials such as mohair and merino wool, materials readily available in South Africa 

"When you buy local you’re supporting farmers in the Eastern Cape, supporting the spinning mills... I want to keep working with protein fibres and hair fibres, and master this skill."

Designing a pattern is a highly intuitive process, Ngxokolo says. He knows something is pattern potential when he’s able to look at what inspires him and it speaks to him, revealing its unique nuances, its visual relevance to the environment and a contemporary novelty. 

Maxhosa Knitwear is a perfect example of how traditions and modern life can be ‘woven’ together to create amazing style, preserving culture and pride in a completely modern and forward looking way. By letting your design process be inspired consciously, traditional influences are transformed and a particular 'heritage aesthetic' that translates into a fresh new look. For Ngxokolo, this is a look that is not constricted by geographical borders but also happens to embrace distinctive African and Eurocentric marks  at the same time!

    


  Laduma Ngxokolo at the Design Indaba conference held in November 2011 in Capetown, South Africa: